Beyond the Label: A Gluten-Free Q&A with Elsa Goldman
Over the past decade, gluten-free eating has gone from niche to mainstream. Whether due to health concerns or lifestyle choices, more people are identifying and embracing their dietary needs, and they’re expecting the food industry to keep up. While grocery shelves and restaurant menus have come a long way in offering gluten-free options, consumer demand still outweighs what many brands and retailers are able to provide.
With the gluten-free food products market projected to reach $4.25 billion by 2029, how can brands answer the demand and meet consumers where they are? Our Associate Culinary Creative Director, trained pastry chef, and gluten-free connoisseur, Elsa Goldman, shares her experiences and strategies for navigating this evolving landscape.
First off, can you define what the term “gluten free” means?
“Gluten free” is an FDA regulated term that only applies to products that have less than 20 parts per million of gluten, which is considered safe for those with celiac disease and gluten sensitivities. While manufacturers can voluntarily self proclaim that their products are made in a facility or on equipment that also processes glutenous products, it is not required by the FDA.
As the gluten-free lifestyle becomes more socialized and the category grows, the environment is ripe for misconceptions. Which ones do you encounter most often?
People tend to think that gluten is only in bread or baked goods, which is categorically untrue. It also shows up in sauces, spices, salad dressings, and even packaged broths, making it very challenging to manage a gluten-free diet.
Another very common misconception is that gluten-free food doesn’t taste good or doesn’t compare to traditional baking, and that is false! In the last 10 years, there have been numerous chefs and home bakers creating and perfecting flour blends that mimic glutenous ones, and they are very good. There are also some really great gluten-free cooking and baking recipes — you just need to know where to look. I have some tips for that later on.
There’s also this belief that gluten-free baking is more difficult, but it’s not. In fact, in many ways, gluten-free baking is a lot easier. With the ready-made gluten-free flour blends that are available, there’s no need to purchase and mix multiple ingredients together. Plus, gluten-free bread doesn’t need proofing and rise times are shorter. For both sweet and savory gluten-free dishes, it really comes down to the recipe. With a good recipe and a desire to lean into naturally gluten-free ingredients, you really can make amazing gluten-free food.
How do you counter those misconceptions, especially when it comes to creating gluten-free recipes and content that feels accessible and inclusive?
I think it’s really important to create content that engages, educates, and builds trust with consumers so that they understand the ease and benefits of gluten-free cooking and baking. In our day-to-day work, if a recipe can easily be made gluten-free with an ingredient substitution, our culinary team will definitely try to incorporate it. (For example, using tamari in a marinade recipe instead of soy sauce.) Many brands are playing catch-up when it comes to meeting the growing consumer demand for gluten-free content. We have the in-house expertise for both sweet and savory gluten-free cooking and baking, so we’re always ready to develop that content when needed.
What are a few of your favorite gluten-free products?
From a baking perspective, I think King Arthur is leading the charge. So is Bob’s Red Mill. But I’m partial to King Arthur because their flour has exceptionally good structure and smooth texture. Both brands have a lot of great baking mixes too. For bread, I like Canyon Bakehouse for their larger loaves and structure, and Simple Mills offers my favorite gluten-free crackers — they’re great on their own and also pair well with everything from cheese to hummus. Tate’s Bake Shop chocolate chip cookies are so great you wouldn’t even know they’re gluten free. In the last few years, I’ve found a gluten-free gochujang, which has been a game changer for cooking Korean dishes.
Speaking of global foods, there are a lot of gaps in this market when it comes to gluten-free cooking products. What do you think there is the most demand for?
While Latin American, Southeast Asian, African, Indian, and Middle Eastern cuisines are all centered around naturally gluten-free ingredients like corn, rice, lentils, chickpeas, and millet, many cuisines remain inaccessible to gluten-free eaters, like Chinese food, for example. Soy sauce products and packaged goods like gyoza and baos have a lot of development potential. Italian cuisine too! While gluten-free pasta products have come a long way, consumers are still hungry for recipes that incorporate them, as well as education regarding the accommodations necessary, like different cook times and ingredient amounts. For brands looking to get into the gluten-free market, these areas would be a great place to start because the demand is definitely there!
I’ll add that there’s always plenty of room for education around the cultural history of gluten-free eating itself and how it’s been a part of many cuisines for centuries, like those mentioned above. The more awareness and inclusivity we can drive around this, the better it will be for consumers and brands alike.
What gaps are you seeing when it comes to gluten-free baking?
While gluten-free chefs and brands have perfected the basics like chocolate chip cookies and vanilla cake, I would love to see some more creativity and innovation in flavors and presentation. The traditional baking market has that really dialed in right now and I think there’s plenty of room to match that in the gluten-free space. Also, where is the gluten-free cookie dough ice cream? I haven’t seen that yet!
Cost is obviously prohibitive when it comes to gluten-free cooking and baking. Can you talk a little more about that?
Because gluten-free production often requires separate facilities and sourcing outside the well-oiled wheat system we’ve spent decades perfecting, it costs more to produce and purchase gluten-free products. In baking specifically, mimicking the starch, protein, and fat ratios found in wheat flour requires combining several different ingredients and flours, some of which can be more than $10 a bag. Gluten-free batters also need additional binders, like xanthan gum, extra egg, or psyllium husk, which further adds to the cost. And in the restaurant world, it’s common to see an upcharge for gluten-free menu substitutions.
Fun fact: In New Zealand, people diagnosed with celiac disease have access to a subsidy for certain gluten-free foods, like flour and baking mixes. So there are some ways to combat the price barrier to gluten-free living, but there’s definitely opportunity for more creative thinking here.
As a trained pastry chef and gluten-free baker, what are some of your tips and tricks for gluten-free baking?
- It’s all about the recipe! While you can use a 1:1 ratio to substitute gluten-free flour in a traditional baking recipe, you’ll get much better results if you find a good gluten-free recipe that already has the necessary balance figured out.
- Source recipes from cuisines that naturally lean gluten free. That way, you’re not reinventing the wheel. There are a lot of naturally gluten-free ingredients there that you can rely on.
- Gluten-free flours in general have a higher starch content so they tend to be a little grittier. To counter this, I suggest opting for a finer-milled flour, which handles moisture better. If you don’t have that, you can pulse your flour in a food processor a few times. Also, letting your batter rest for like 15 minutes will allow it to better absorb the moisture.
- Gluten-free flour doesn’t absorb fat very well, which is why gluten-free recipes often don’t have a lot of fat content. Unfortunately, less fat means less flavor. To counter that, you can add rich-tasting ingredients like cream cheese or white chocolate to your recipe.
- Unlike batters made with wheat flour, you can’t over-mix gluten-free batters (because there is no gluten to develop). The more you mix it, the more homogenized the batter becomes. Even if your recipe doesn’t call for it, mix your batter for 10 minutes then let it rest for 15 minutes and you’ll achieve a better texture.
Here are some of my favorite go-to gluten-free resources:
- For the best bread recipe (and more): Baked to Perfection
- For a highlight of naturally gluten-free recipes: The Gluten-Free Cookbook
- For dinner parties, whole grain cooking, and creative flavor combos: Cannelle et Vanille Bakes Simple
- For my go-to homemade flour blend plus reliable and approachable baking recipes: How Can It Be Gluten Free
- For my favorite website with reliable gluten-free recipes: Broma Bakery
Have questions or want to talk more about creating delicious and on-trend gluten-free content? We’re here for it!